Cleaner clothes

CLEANER CLOTHES WITH WORKER'S RIGHTS
(International Union Rights, n. 3 - 1996)

  Amirul Haque Amin is a quietly spoken modest man determined to improve the working conditions and future prospects of garment workers in Bangladesh. He and his members have a tough task in a country where mass unemployment and poverty are endemic.
  And yet, Amirul remains optimistic. At least there is a tradition of trade union activity and organisation and a framework of progressive labour law.
  But the problems are familiar ones. Trade union organisation is weak and constantly undermined by mass unemployment and what flows from it Ñ arrogant employers, a weak bargaining position for the workers and a reserve army of labour. And because the balance of forces is so tilted towards the employers it is extremely difficult to ensure that laws to protect working people are infact enforced.
  The garment industry is Bangladesh's most important employer and export earner. It contributes 64 per cent of Bangladeshi exports and employs 1.2 million workers of whom 80 per cent are women. Trade union membership is low (around 50,000 only 50 per cent of whom are women) and, as is characteristic of Bangladesh, split between six unions which are mainly plant based. The big employers are primarily rich, Bangladeshi families with very strong links with government and the state at all levels. In recent years some foreign capital has entered the industry and two Export Processing Zones have been established attracting Italian, Japanese and Korean garment manufacturers. Within these zones there are no unions and there are none planned.
  Child labour is widespread in the industry although there has been several recent government - supported campaigns against its worse manifestations. Bangladeshi law bans the use of children under 14 years old in most manufacturing and associated occupations. And yet, before 1993, there were 100,000 children working in the garment industry and there are still around 50,000 employed mostly in the smaller plants. Amirul was anxious to stress that the abolition of child labour should not be seen as an isolated demand but one which is part of a radical reform programme to alleviate family poverty, to create jobs for adults and to invest in education and food programmes for the young. He told me: "many of the children displaced from the garment industry are no better off. Indeed many are now working in other less safe industries like rock breaking in the quarries and labouring in the construction industry. We have support from UNICEF and the ILO and agreement between the government and the employers to eradicate child labour. But it will be a long process which can only be satisfactorily developed if there is increased support from the international community".
  Amirul is enthusiastic about the Clean Clothes Campaign's tour. The delegation visited Netherlands, Britain, France, Germany and Belgium pressing for a 'Fair Trade Charter'. The members of the delegation are anxious to bring the state of the garment industry in their part of the world to consumers and trade unions in Europe. Amirul illustrated this by outlining his union's current demands:
  The first demand, says Amirul, "illustrates the conditions which millions of garment workers face in many countries of the world. We are organising and campaigning to give our members hope for the future. We need the help of workers everywhere both as trade unionists and consumers. The crucial next stage is increased awareness and pressure on manufacturers and retailers to enter into Fair Trade Charter agreements. And these Fair Trade Charters will need to be properly monitored if they are to be effective."
  The Bangladeshi labour movement has an effective and articulate representative in Amirul Haque Amin. His quiet optimism will inspire many to redouble their efforts for changeÑfor a new trading regime which ensures that all manufacturers and subcontractors provide working conditions that are safe and meet minimum international standards and which outlaws excessive hours of work and child and bonded labour.
  The labelling campaign is beginning to take off internationally and more and more consumers are now becoming aware of the issues behind the campaign. It all helps Bangladeshi workers to organise and campaign for their trade union rights.

(by Tom Sibley, ICTUR's executive secretary)

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